AN INTERVIEW WITH KOSTAS MURKUDIS
Das Berliner Atelier
written by Annika Hatje
Through a movement of any kind, different approaches, shapes and stories develop to last yet aim at modifying again. In lieu of such fast-framed processes, today’s change seems to appear just a little bit faster than it did yesterday. To catch up with this dynamic, the individual needs to think inventive, adapt quickly, be aware of the situation finding oneself in and evolve upon such – Annika Hatje visited Kostas Murkudis in his atelier in Berlin and talked with him about his current collection, the inspiration resources and paradigms in fashion.
Entering his spacy atelier, illuminated by fluorescent tubes and warm wooden flooring, Kostas refines an environment that allows functionality and casualty, balancing a vigorous working atmosphere together with its homely attributes.
Going through the collection’s room, further towards the green garden with its prospering fauna, one enters the winter garden. It is silent and peaceful; reminding one of the spot you’d always dream off, to finally take a deep breath and loosen the strings attached to time. Here, architec- ture and design objects are in fact a con- clusion of the interaction with shapes and colors. Versatile yet determent constitute characterizing attributes of a design object that acquires a status as such. Clothing can be such object, when inheriting the ability to master both attributes, created by Kostas Murkudis.
" No boundaries, but eyes wide open towards the future implying the creation of face, guaranteeing for price challenges, production aims and freedom in creation "
Ambitiously inspired by his past collections, Kostas has been reconditioning his signature above what dictates trends, shapes and colors. Dedication - The artists mind is about stories to be told, transmitted through his unique aesthetics, following today’s function of body movements and lifestyles. It’s up to each individual to discover the clothes’ details, instead of discriminating one for its misuse. The collection in general stands out with its well applied haptic, it’s soft colored garment design (by Nadine Goepfert) and emphasizes a certain feeling of development within our society and its individuals. It’s a silent and smart fight, an innovative statement that embodies the progressive metropolitan wardrobe, where everything makes sense, every little stitch, pocket and detail, rein- forces the process of creation as a circle that nurtures itself and therefore continues infinitely. This in its core, functions as the catalyst, creating the desire to communicate. No boundaries, but eyes wide open towards the future implying the creation of face, guaranteeing for price challenges, production aims and freedom in creation. By skillfully reinterpreting the rules of beauty and norms of society, Kostas develops a certain distance to the pressure of today’s fashion industry dictate. Over the years, there had been developed a gentle, yet strong character that defines him as a person, influencing his collections.
" Within our postmodern environment we always tend to find appreciation of beauty. With creating a playful thought, defining freedom and detaching it from given codes, we get to question what is reality after all? "
Paris in particular has been crucial to his individual process towards being a designer, maintaining competitiveness, as this city constitutes creative freedom and acceptance of such within a society that evolves from the same impulses and desires. In its core values though, his creations do function on an artistic level, creating the basis of understanding, how to approach such in its holistic attempt.
Radiant youth, a human’s body and its attraction; the collection’s touch and playful features are characterizing his designs, keeping our senses and mind active, by allowing us to construe his composition in our own way. Accompanied by such freedom, it is actually the certain fondness on simplicity that’s creating space for complexity.
Within our postmodern environment we always tend to find appreciation of beauty. With creating a playful thought, defining freedom and detaching it from given codes, we get to question what is reality after all? Illusion and reflection hereby create a certain hyperreality, forming a context to evolve from. Regarding that, it is questioned whether there are actual scales that define beauty, limiting it to only an essence, or if the current development of limitation has been pushed boundaries. The essence is no longer an entity, as it now is rather used as an illustration of the various facets of beauty, manifested within major topics like gender, comfort, hierarchies and attraction. After all, contemporary aesthetics define its creator, deciding upon the placement of relevance: Being able to bend the idea of beauty, to manifest an object’s power in being visually appealing and raising awareness towards the importance of a long-lasting imagery, elucidates the current aesthetical dynamics in the creative industry.
Furthermore, and such is the initial indicator of successful designing, there is a given mindset that fashion continuous to be a consistent and independent platform, functioning as an expression of taste within the scope of cultural understanding. But most importantly it raises awareness on the relevance of innovation in an industry which mostly functions through consumption and reproduction Film though, well-functions as another projector for the idea of his collections.
It resembles another voice, channeling the garments from another angle and allows being playful, as well as challenging at the same time. It changes the way we develop a thought about certain aesthetics. Sequences of film almost seem like a puzzle, where its pieces are made out of various attributes that’s been put together. As an artist, Kostas Murkudis uses such platform to inspire but also question certain paradigms of several disciplines. His film collection’s aim is accompanied by a clear message, a regulatory parameter that is more or less visible, but reconciling its sequences. Moreover, he mentions in our talk that film in general is today’s way to communicate to a broad variety of generations. It is the bonding that we keep to our origin, and which made Kostas coming back to Berlin after such a long voyage within the fashion industry. Travelling professionally roots from curiosity and self-realization, but also from today’s natural understanding of being available at any time, worldwide. From designing his own line, to taking over the creative direction of other labels, as well as exhibiting certain pieces of his at the MMK Frankfurt and finally creating the costume design for the opera of Luzern, as well as their stage setting, one receives a profound idea of the scope of his work that in itself is tremendous and comprises major disciplines. His journey thus proves that there are no boundaries in creation Memories vanish, as experience continues to prosper. Going further, it creates confidence, a vital network and a team that contributes to facilitate and inspire. Gathering a strong set of creativity around oneself, attributes as craftsmans- hip, honest narratives and brilliant mastered compositions of fabric and design, develop naturally.
‘There had been so much happening in my life, I can’t remember everything’ – but somehow it all comes together when reviewing his works – most resonant, there is someone sitting in front of me who is kind-hearted, keeping a certain youth naivety and reveals his standing and thoughts only partly - always keeping a smooth tempo to it. I would even argue that such is one of the most desired skills of today’s open world: Keeping things to yourself and taking time to tell.