Brachmann´s women´s + men´s collection 2018 is inspired by the ‘Tuxedo’. By updating silhouettes with the introduction of sculptural sleeves, pleats and panels, the Tuxedo becomes more versatile and effortless. Through the interplay of deconstructing and reconstructing, Brachmann arrives at new details and shapes for infusing classics pieces with details and shapes from the Tuxedo.
LE MILE issue 24: spring+summer '18
Buy it now. uy it now. y it now. it now. t now. now.
Julian Zigerli presented his Spring/Summer 2018 collection during Berlin Fashion Week. "Threesome" is a collaboration with fellow Swiss artists Manon Wertebroek and Christopher Füllemann. The three have been working together since January of last year, to set up the project that was now presented in Berlin as an exhibition.
NADYA DZYAK *Pre-Fall 2018*
The beauty of French cinematography in 1970s and 1980s, and the use of fashion to tell stunning stories was the starting point for Nadya Dzyak this fall season.
PARIA FARZANEH - WE WERE ALL HERE AT ONCE
Iranian born, Paria Farzaneh holds her cultural roots at the core of her brand DNA. For Autumn Winter 2018, menswear designer Paria Farzaneh draws inspiration from a fusion of memory, identity and profession.
Band of Outsiders
’ key inspiration for FW18 is the idyllic winter-sport holiday. In tune with Band’s philosophy, the collection consists of a complete wardrobe for tongue-in-cheek everyday life.
LE MILE SeLECTED *KODAK PIXPRO 360°*
In the past few years, there´s been big steps taken on the action camera scene. Kodak PixPro´s 4KVR360 action camera hasn´t just a very long and out of the ordinary name but it also is one of a kind in its field of 360 degree cameras. You have aull 360° view in 4K from only one smart package.
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY A+W '18
Edward Crutchley returns to the London Fashion Week Men catwalk for his second season in an exploration of communication, looking to the past and the present for visual cues that transcend language and can still meaningfully convey ideas in our contemporary world.
LE MILE SeLECTED: Stuudio Nahk
Stuudio Nahk is a contemporary accessories label from Estonia. These leather bags are designed with great attention to detail, keeping in mind the needs of the city life and making it possible to wear your favorite accessory from the morning in the office to the evening rendezvous.
Inspired by 1990s films, such as Danny Boyle´s Trainspotting, WEER´s collection finds its roots within the look of classic workwear, combined with the acid culture of the decade. Strong tones + reflection effects are key this season, from fluorescent orange and fuchsia pink to olive green and silver accents, balanced with white, black and pastel tones.
Juergen Teller x Adwoa Aboah
Juergen Teller photographed Adwoa Aboah together with her friends and family, including her cousins Alfie Husband, George Husband, Richard Theodore-Aboah and Kwame N’Dow, as well as Montell Martin and Mae Muller along Regent’s Canal in North London.
MAI PIÙ SENZA stands for highest quality + indulgent shoes that bring together feminine elegance and beauty. The AW17 collection is inspired by global streetstyle trends as well as each of the brand’s fiery female personalities – the MAIgirls.
LE MILE SeLECTED: SOUTH LANE
South Lane's defining AVANT collection has been re-envisioned and expanded. Retaining its avant-garde aesthetic and traditional Scandinavian minimalism, which propelled the brand into the world of high fashion, the new collection continues to push the envelope of design.
YUUL YIE by David Gomez-Maestre
For S+S ‘18, Korean designer Yuul Yie draws inspiration from the colours and romanticism of the 60s - a decade of counterculture which saw a shift in the long‐held norms of behaviour and style. David Gomez-Maestre shot the spring+summer ‘18 campaign.
For S+S '18 GOETZE introduces a collection influenced by streetwear elements from the 90s and classical Mediterranean summer wardrobe. The exemplary GOETZE sleeve construction, the meticulous attention to details, the precise finishing conjoin the relaxed fits of the S+S '18 pieces, evoking an effortless sportive appeal.
LE MILE SeLECTED *DAMIR DOMA*
Croatian-born designer Damir Doma grew up surrounded by toiles in his mother’s atelier in Germany and later studied fashion in Munich and Berlin, where he graduated in 2004. After gaining experiences in the ateliers designers Raf Simons + Dirk Schönberger, he relocated to Paris and launched his first menswear collection in 2007, and three years later showed the first women’s prêt-à-porter collection.
CARA x CHRISTMAS
Ms. Cara Delevingne hosted a party at The Glory in London tonight and celebrated together with Rita Ora, Natalia Dyer, Charlie Heaton, Clara Paget, Gala Gordon, Jaime Winstone, Immy Waterhouse, Erin O'Connor, Nick Grimshaw, Blondey McCoy, Florence Clapcott, Hebe Flury, Jess Cole, George Ezra, Amber Anderson, Harris Dickinson, Neelam Gill, and Suki Waterhouse (to name just a few) the start of the Christmas season and her latest collaboration with Burberry.
The upcoming YUN collection features two new lens colors and five completely new silhouettes. Sahara + Bordeaux are the new shades for sunglasses at YUN Berlin. The soft yellow shading of the Sahara gives the world a glimmer of gold and at the same time makes the view perceptible. The blue-light filter of the lens and the associated color can also be used in foggy and wet-cold autumn days.
LE MILE SELECTED *ANDREA MAACK*
Andrea Maack has created fragrances inspired by her artworks. A native Icelander, she graduated from the Icelandic Art Academy with a degree in Fine Arts and she has been having solo exhibitions at the Reykjavík Art Museum, Georgia Sherman Toronto, Arnhem Mode Biennale, Maddox Gallery London and window installations at Harvey Nichols London, Tsum Moscow and Storm Copenhagen to name a few.
Tommy Zhong’s Spring/Summer ‘18 collection is built on the complementary facets of difference. Collaborating with artist Nadine Shaban, a sensuous discourse piqued in a collection with texture at its core.
The Little Truckin´ Goods
If you´re looking for an eco-friendly + stylish solution for your everyday carry then Freitag has the answer. After its latest launch, the revolutionizing air travel luggage >Zippelin bag<, Freitag gets ready to transform the way one carries everyday essentials. The collection >The Little Truckin’ Goods< features recycled truck tarpaulins, in different colors and styles. No matter if you prefer them in chic or urban, the wallets, key rings, travel pouches or cases blend the durability of the hard-wearing material with contemporary design.
LE MILE SeLECTED *EDELINE LEE*
The Ready-To-Wear collection S+S `18 builds on EDELINE LEE´s previous body of work, consistently exploring what it means to be a woman in this modern world and how to dress her. Inspired by feminine courage, Canadian-born designer Edeline Lee says: „I imagined Georgia O´Keeffe after her heartbreak and subsequent nervous breakdown, when she first encountered that powerful landscape and realised firstly, that she had found her place in the world and secondly, that this was what she was meant to paint for the rest of her life.“
Korean designer Sunyuul Yie is know for her statement pearl-embelished velvet footwear. Her latest S+S 2018 collection is brimming with similarly fabulous styles, from fringed mules to sophisticated square-toed pumps and new silver hardware.
BLONDEY McCOY x BURBERRY Murals in Manhattan
British artist, designer and pro-skater Blondey McCoy has created three hand-painted murals in the Flatiron and Soho districts of Manhattan, designed exclusively for Burberry.
DAVID HOCKNEY (MET)
For nearly 60 years, David Hockney (British, born 1937) has pursued a singular career with a love for painting and its intrinsic challenges. A major retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art—the show’s only North American venue, opening November 27, 2017—honors the artist in the year of his 80th birthday by presenting his most iconic works and key moments of his career from 1960 to the present.
Poster Girl is made up of the creative partnership of designers Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville who met during their studies at Central Saint Martins. Launched in March 2017, Poster Girl has grown rapidly working with retailers including Selfridges and Opening Ceremony with a unique sense of “nostalgia-meets-the-future”. Capper and Somerville’s personal take on the fashion schedule is based on four collections a year on the same theme as a continually building and developing annual collection.
DROMe as a dream. DROMe as a journey.
DROMe presents the evocative new mens Spring/Summer 2018 collection images, shot by 20 year old artist, Gabriele Rosati
LE MILE SeLECTED *SADAK*
Inspired by a set of miniatures found at Belgrade’s ethnographic museum, SADAK’s new collection is a celebration of diversity and sartorial contradictions, blending the appeal of 1990s subcultures with the beauty of formal tailoring and timeless sportswear.
converse cons x civilist
The Berlin-based skateboard store *Civilist* has established itself as a household name in the global skateboarding community. It serves as a culture hub for art, music, and skateboarding. In 2017, Converse and Civilist celebrate the role Berlin has played in driving global street culture with interpretations of the One Star Pro and Chuck Taylor All Star Pro inspired by the city.
Fierce + Feminine *TSOLO MUNKH*
Tsolmandakh Munkhuu is a very special woman who defied and defeated the sometimes constricting confines of her native Mongolia to follow her creative urge. Thank goodness she did, and thank goodness she was strong, talented, and determined enough to succeed, because one thing is certain: ever since its 2010 foundation, Tsolmandakh Munkhuu’s fashion brand,Tsolo Munkh, has certainly been enriching the fashion world.
Zign F+W `17/`18
Zigns upcoming fall+winter collection perfectly blends classic and modern elements creating a timeless design with minimalist features that allow an effortless day to night look. Metal eyelets and elastic sidepanels turn Derbys, Chelseas and Boots into urban allrounder while leather weekender and bumbags perfectly complement the harmoniously composed collection.
LE MILE SeLECTED *A.F. Vandevorst*
A.F. Vandevorst’s SS18 collection finds its artistic roots in motocross. Per tradition, the brand is heavily influenced by their favourite muse - the nomadic woman ready to experience. This season their muse gracefully embraces the off-road and speed of the motocross grounds.
issue: FALL+WINTER #23
Fall+Winter Issue N°23 stars artist Mustafah Abdulaziz on the cover, photographed by Jaap Bräutigam. Contributions and features on + through Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçon), Stephen Shore, Gucci, Irving Penn, Club 57, Tagen Donovan, VIU, Pablo Erroz, Emma Matell, Alessandro Squarzi, Emma Matell and more.
Inner Landscape *Marzio Cavanna*
Marzio Cavanna is an Italian architect who was born in Milan. He is driven by two passions – architecture and pharmacy – two very different yet equally dynamic and deep subjects to dive into. His first love, architecture, requires devotion and patience, as every project is a translation of an owner and his or her character. Marzio’s work is about creating an ambience, the sensation of a house or a room, while respecting the story of his subject matter.
MAX TAN *CONTINENTAL DRIFT*
In a nutshell - The theory of continental drifts realised in the modern age; new media, digital communications as a catalyst. The state of the world currently - the world becoming one, clashing cultures, social conflicts and fake news.
Wrangler by Peter Max
In Winter 2017, Wrangler unveils the second to last drop of this premium collection in collaboration with the celebrated artist Peter Max, master of the cosmic print. The jeans giant first collaborated with Max in the early 1970s and, appropriately, this new, all European-made apparel line - for both men and women - has the same boldly colourful, upbeat period feel.
LE MILE SeLECTED: *ELLENBERGER DESIGN*
In 2006 Jannis Ellenberger established a studio for interior- and product design, offering design service to a diverse of international furniture manufacturing companies. His design service has been honored with the iF Product Design Award, European Product Design Award in Gold and the Kids Design Award, to name just a few. In 2011 Ellenberger established „Elleberger Design“ with own collections.
LE MILE SeLECTED: *FREITAG*
Back in the 90s, digital designers and brothers Markus + Daniel Freitag were looking for a functional, water-resistent and robust backpack to hold their graphic works. By seeing the heavy multicolored trucks that rumbled infront of their apartment, they got inspired and created a bag from used truck tarpaulins, discarded bicycle inner tubes, and car seat belts.
LE MILE Selected: *PUMA*
PUMA is best known for its sportswear goods. But recently, PUMA has made a significant effort in expanding its influence in the lifestyle + fashion world through various collaborations with Alexander McQueen, Rihanna, Selena Gomez, Tsugi Kori, or just recently Alexander Wang.
le mile selected: *G-SHOCK x PIGALLE*
The French label PIGALLE teamed up with the Japanese watch brand G-SHOCK and together they have designed two variations of the iconic DW-5600. Now, the collection of new wristwatches has been released and is inspired by the Japanese culture and by the same time by the creativity and innovation of Ashpool. The collection is available in the colors of Pigalle´s current collection in black and in a soft pastel tone. Both watches contain the logo of Pigalle on white display.
ACNE STUDIOS S+S`18
I am always interested in what sits outside of fashion. It’s an attitude that is at the heart of Acne Studios, and this season I wanted to explore this outsider way of being. These are individual pieces that are as if found characterful looks that are made for pleasure.
PAUL & YAKOV S+S`18
‘Libertad’ is an ode to communist Latin America - joyfully embracing the similarities and differences between the great communist regions. The collection draws inspirations from the warmth and heat of these territories, something which Russia so stereotypically lacks.
STREET STYLE NYFW S+S`18
PITTI FRAGRANZE 15
PITTI FRAGRANZE the best display of international artistic perfumery brands, that takes places in Florence, focused this time on sustainability, a hot topic that is abused and more often used for marketing leverage rather than for executing real changes. In perfumery, sustainability is still a very “fresh” topic and for this reason Pitti Fragranze no.15 dedicated some attention to it through a series of talks stepping on the the frontiers of sustainability and exotic spices.
HER CRIMSON - Milena Wojhan
It is impossible to be disappeared in this way as a being. A beautiful but somehow shadowy woman. She just vanished in a split-second. I’ve been following, sneakingly peeping on her for the last couple of days with this dismal weather – it seemed to be perfectly in synch with her heroin-chic aesthetic.
I AM CHEN
Playground is an all-knitwear collection that conveys playfulness and lightness while the garments are underpinned by highly intricate and sophisticated fabric structures. The elaborate patterns, rich colours and distinct textures are all knitted into integral pieces of seamless fabric and remind us on works of Alexander Calder who has influenced the bright colors and blocky shapes used by the designer in this collection. Playground offers a new knitwear that renders smooth surface that bears intricacy within a harmonious whole, as if the fabrics are born this way, natural and pristine. This revolutionary collection redefines knitwear.
HERE WE ARE
'Here We Are' is curated by Christopher Bailey, President and Chief Creative Officer, Burberry, and Lucy Kumara Moore, writer, curator and Director of Claire de Rouen, and co-curated by Alasdair McLellan, and will feature over 200 works by photographers including Dafydd Jones, Bill Brandt, Brian Griffin, Shirley Baker, Jane Bown, Martin Parr, Jo Spence, Ken Russell, Charlie Phillips, Karen Knorr, Janette Beckman and Andy Sewell.
LE MILE SeLECTED: *VENCZEL - 01*
Venczel is the exacting expression of swedish designer Matilda Venczel. The newborn label serves as the maiden voyage for the former student of the Antwerp Academy. Having worked through the studio of Carol Christian Poell and subsequently Tärnsjö Tannery, her thoughtfully critical eye weaves a singular vision through every articulation of the label, from the workmanship of the leather, to the humanity of the pieces when worn.
Filippa K AW17
The Filippa K AW17 campaign is the first image campaign with founder Filippa Knutsson back as Creative Director. Inspired by the simplicity of minimalistic Scandinavian design, Filippa K creates garments that are simple, beautiful and long lasting, clearly showcased by this autumns imagery.
LE MILE SeLECTED: *NEW BALANCE*
New Balance is designed to cater to the endless days that always characterize the modern lifestyle. See the latest trends *selected by LE MILE Magazine.
A MODERN VIEW ON "Timeless"
Italy is one of the crown jewels of Old Europe, a country that is unique and diverse from both a geographical and cultural point of view. One must live it to understand it right, to understand the way the time has passed the places, the streets, the way the time has shaped the forms, the values and the attitudes, the way the traditions have remained the same and on the other side, the way it all has stood the test of time.
Limited Edition of 20 Catalogs of Alexander Minor´s series >Check out<
LE MILE Studios has released a limited edition of 20 catalogs of Alexander Minor´s series "Check out", presenting 26 photographs. Edited by Alban E. Smajli, the catalog includes an introduction by Mirjam Bayerdörfer and an interview by Annika Hatje.
IRVING PENN - Earthly Bodies
When asked to reveal the secrets of his portrait and studio works, Irving Penn, reckoned master of modernist photography, once responded: “I try to find a person at a very serene, true, and fairly restful moment.”
Vladimir Karaleev S+S 18
Vladimir Karaleev has been showing his collection SS18 in connection to the Berlin Fashion Week 2017, presenting an extraordinary show of interesting, well curated clothes. Exciting cut-outs, intriguing shapes and a fine selection of fabrics triggering a kind of curiosity that evolves over the whole time, the show was on. We see flawless layering, a variety of fabrics and textures that range from soft to coarse, infolding the body and waving smoothly within the movement’s rhythm. Fascinating is the lightness that each piece would have.
Hien Le S+S ‘18
This Thursday Hien Le presented his Spring/Summer 2018 collection as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The collection is an ode to the poetry of dance, exploring the interplay between body and fabric.
For the first time, Hien Le collaborates with Berlin-based porcelain and ceramics manufactory Schoemig who created handmade porcelain buttons and accessories for this collectoin which also reflects the contrast of dance. Some models were wearing sunglasses from Austrain manufactory Neubau Eyewear.
Dawid Tomaszewski S+S ‘18
Dawid Tomaszewski’s creations are both experimental and innovative. He uses industrial and unconventional materials and skilfully combines them with extraordinary cuts and uncompromising fits, thereby balancing all elements perfectly, culminating in avant-garde creations. Dawid Tomaszewski’s designs epitomise the 21st-century woman and empower her through her femininity. The designer is inspired by art, architecture and music, and blends these influences with his personal vision of how a modern woman should dress. The power of his collections lies in his faith in the finest craftsmanship and his unwavering attention to detail.
DROMe Resort 2018
When a generation is in search of a cultural identity, symbols are everything, where fashion reflects feminine contradictions and describe the different dimensions of today’s women. Cuts, bows and pleats become symbolic of stylistic communication. A coded message that takes an introspective journey through the fragments of Marianna Rosati’s dark romanticism for her DROMe, a´ la David Lynch, but with a fresh appeal and playful image. Between sartorial skill, technology, traditional roles and nuances of gender, the thread running through the collection is deconstruction.
VIU x LE MILE Studios
Exclusively for the first opening of VIU in Denmark, we present a group exhibition of five inspiring Copenhagen-based artists: Freya Dalsjø, Albert Grøndahl, Lea Guldditte Hestelund, Amalie Adrian, and Gro Sarauw . With this exhibition VIU combines the highest standards of design and quality with fascinating contemporary art from different artistic disciplines.
LE MILE SeLECTED: *The Student Hotel*
The Student Hotel business model provides an unique hybrid destination for a fast-growing international community that plans beside Amsterdam 40 other properties in European cities by 2021. They continue to look for opportunities across the continent, seeking and developing dormant and unloved buildings to bring positive economic and social benefits to their neighbourhoods. Situated in the heart of one of Europe’s most iconic cities, The Student Hotel Amsterdam City building offers state-of-the-art hotel accommodation, collaborative work areas, stylish communal lounges and a restaurant and bar branded ‘The Pool’. In 2017 it launches TSH Collab - dedicated co-working space for local businesses, start ups and entrepreneurs.
Exclusive: FOMME SKI ALPIN CAMPAIGN
EXCLUSIVE// Ski alpin inspired by winter sport elegance from the mid 20th century throws you back into wistful memories of snowy cold winter days. Sportive elements meet fluffy fur and ultra smooth velvet. Checked tweed reminds you of woolen blankets in front of the open fire. Meet the man who sports the fomme look most gracefully on europe’s legendary ski pistes. Fun and Ski from Germany. The campaign has been shot by German fashion photographer Elizaveta Porodina, which was shot in the Alps.
The February collection of Burberry is inspired by the work and personal style of British artist Henry Moore. His take on scale, shape and texture is translated into sculptural silhouettes and asymmetric designs. The new campaign has been shot by British photographer Josh Olins, Burberry’s February collection has been captured in a new ad campaign, which launches in full and features up-and-coming models: Nora Attal, Jess Cole, Maya Gunn, Sophie Hamilton, Ella King, Tamara Long, Elfie Reigate, Amber Witcomb, Myles Dominique, Tom Fool, Alex K, Henry Kitcher and Tom Walmsley. The campaign was shot on location at Henry Moore Studios & Gardens, Hertfordshire: the artist’s former home.
`MISBHV´ has become one of the most anticipated names below the surface of the international fashion industry in recent years since making the leap from its native Warsaw to the international markets. Based in Poland it is a forerunner amongst the current wave of Central and Eastern European designer brands bubbling within the international markets. Fronted by designer Natalia Maczek it was founded to create clothes “their friends would like”, aiming to break the cycle of imitation and emulation in fashion they create clothing for the style confident individual.
EDUN continues its collaboration with South African photographer, Kristin-Lee Moolman, with a video and photo series shot in Roosevelt, Queens. Together with Moolman, EDUN maintains the theme of empowerment and youth in a surreal, almost elusive suburban space to showcase their heroines. The 70's atmosphere of this quiet neighborhood - its graphic houses and winding sidewalks - is used as a blank canvas where the EDUN Girls, driving a classic Pontiac Firebird, pop with their girl gang attitude and urban styling.
A mix of separates that is like the perfect vintage finds combined with pieces of character, creating a universal look. The silhouette is long and lean. Leather trench coats have a fitted waist and slight A-line shape, falling to the knee. Meanwhile, vinyl trench coats in khaki green also have an A-line shape and a high gloss finish. The long lines of a tailored suit are accentuated by the golden vertical stripes of a double-breasted blazer and trousers, with a constructed shoulder and long length to drape the foot. Satin shirts are fluid, with scarf plackets that loop the neck and then drape down the front.
When a generation is in search of a cultural identity, symbols are everything, where fashion reflects feminine contradictions and describe the different dimensions of today’s women. Cuts, bows and pleats become symbolic of stylistic communication. A coded message that takes an introspective journey through the fragments of Marianna Rosati’s dark romanticism for her DROMe, a´ la David Lynch, but with a fresh appeal and playful image. Between sartorial skill, technology, traditional roles and nuances of gender, the thread running through the collection is deconstruction. Starting from very lightweight leathers which become as fluid as silk, forming fine bows, asymmetries, crimping them in a patchwork of different rouches, creating unexpected movements.
Through a movement of any kind, different approaches, shapes and stories develop to last yet aim at modifying again. In lieu of such fast-framed processes, today’s change seems to appear just a little bit faster than it did yesterday. To catch up with this dynamic, the individual needs to think in- ventive, adapt quickly, be aware of the situation finding oneself in and evolve upon such – Editor at Large Annika Hatje visited KOSTAS MURKUDIS in his atelier in Berlin and talked with him about his current collection, the inspiration resources and paradigms in fashion.