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AW018 offers a fresh perspective to his signature tribute to rural workwear.


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AW018 offers a fresh perspective to his signature tribute to rural workwear.


 

 

JOSHUA MILLARD
A+W 018 


may 018

With the new collection, Joshua Millard offers a fresh perspective to his signature tribute to rural workwear. 

 
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Now in his fifth season, the luxury, ready-to-wear designer continues to draw inspiration from his childhood memories of farming in Dorset and specifically, the rolling chalk hills of Southern England known as the Downlands.

Agricultural references seep into this texture-rich collection and manifest as English heritage reimagined and made relevant for today’s luxury market. Patchwork farming shirts, tailored tweed suiting and shearling outerwear add to the nostalgic theme of the collection while sheepskin and tweed girth belts and field hats, which were once worn low at the back to protect from the sun, provide traditional references. A tonal palate with accents of Cyan blue, Iris purple and Ivy greens compliment the collection. Dramatically oversized Alpaca knitted scarfs contrast with the minimal clean finishings of covered buttons, eyelets and raw edged fringing.

The contrast fit of tailored and relaxed cuts highlight Millard’s craftsmanship and amplifies his attention to outerwear, suiting and shirting. 

 

 

 

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MARTINA SPETLOVA Spring Summer 2018


MARTINA SPETLOVA Spring Summer 2018


 

 

MARTINA SPETLOVA
S+S 018 


april 018

London based designer Martina Spetlova studied chemistry before she graduated from MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins and her background in sciences still informs her designs through her experimentation with shapes, textures and colours to create a unique style. 

 
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“Martina’s creations are completely unique within today’s market. Her signature use of plaited leather and fearless eye for colour creates stand-alone, stand-out pieces with a timeless quality. Her devotion to sustainability makes her an inspiring member of our Designer Gallery.” – Ruth Hickman, Selfridges’ Designer Studio Buyer.

Martina always maintains an ethical stance in her work and the materials she sources are always of the highest quality. All Martina’s textiles are handcrafter by highly skilled Syrian woman artisans who are part of refugee charity project in Istanbul, Turkey where the profit goes back into the community.

 

 

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MAX V. KOENIG Spring Summer 2018


MAX V. KOENIG Spring Summer 2018


 

 

MAX V. KOENIG
S+S 018 


april 018

Craftsmanship is at the heart of the new luxury accessories brand, Max V. Koenig, designs leather goods for life-long companionship and to act more as wearable pieces of art than accessory.

 
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The design is inspired by minimalistic shapes, which are reworked to their utmost essence, giving the aesthetics of the collection subtle clarity. The s+s 018 collection is inspired by his childhood memories of the French Riviera where he was  aised.

The colours of the collection have been carefully selected and are reminiscent of the Mediterranean, while leathers are of butter soft, full grain leather and nubuck which is hand sculpted by Max and produced by skilled artisans in a 160 year old atelier. Every object is approached as a 3-dimensional item, with the desire to create an interplay of form, textures and function.

The carefully selected leathers, their grains, subtle and sensual touch, and dense colours complete the unique personality of each bag and accessory. The quality of each piece is being enhanced by a strong attention to detail and the beautifully finished stitching.

 

 

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PAULA KNORR Spring Summer 2018


PAULA KNORR Spring Summer 2018


 

 

PAULA KNORR
S+S 018 


april 018

London-based designer Paula Knorr offers vibrant, sculptural designs which fuse disparate prints, textures and colours to create her innovative signature aesthetic of second-skin separates. 

 
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After graduating, Paula worked as a freelance designer for Peter Pilotto and as well as a variety of projects with well-known fashion stylists to capitalize on her strength in creating innovative draping and cutting techniques. Since founding her label, Paula Knorr’s creations have been worn by the likes of Björk, Solange Knowles, Marina and the Diamonds and skin of Sunk Anansie. Her work has also won the support of key industry individuals such as Barbara Grispini and Anna Orsini of the BFC, Sarah Mower, Demna Gvasalia of etements, Nicola Formichetti, Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM, and Emilio Pucci. 

Since her SS17 presentation Paula has been supported by the British Fashion Council and was awarded NEWGEN, one of the most internationally recognised talent identification schemes which continues to support, showcase and promote new designers.

 

photography Daniel Fraser
styling  Fannie Akerblom
models  Lydia Atchison,Tsiu Kim, Lotje @ LINDEN STAUB
jewellery Räthel&Wolf
shoes  MIISTA
make up Martina Lattanzi
hair Ami Fujita

www.paulaknorr.uk

 

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COS Autumn+Winter 2018 Collection


COS Autumn+Winter 2018 Collection


 

 

COS
A+W 018 


april 018

The COS Autumn+Winter 018 season takes inspiration from two pronounced themes inspired by interdisciplinary research: real or imagined nature and processes which refine the raw. The result is a collection of classic wardrobe pieces with altered proportions and innovative materials that celebrate hybrid, sculptural forms.

 
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Exploring the juxtaposition of the metropolitan and the natural environment acted as a starting point for the design process and translates into the collection through protective and textured garments, bringing the outdoors to the urban. Modular menswear pieces, reminiscent of technical, performance clothing sit alongside elongated women’s gloves, offering a modern take on protection from the elements. 

Framed by a colour palette that reflects the contrasting themes, the season is made up of nature-inspired tones of green and brown, punctuated with sulphur and muted lilac alongside colder, industrial hues of grey, off-white and petrol. 

The collection introduces new silhouettes – in womenswear a knitted dress in sea moss green features organic ribs, exaggerating the ergonomic shape of the elbows, whilst a felted wool pea coat in sulphur melange, paired with trousers and a technical shirt, offers a fresh take on proportions. Hems and waistbands have been redefined as they go from high to low, characterised in some garments by a clearly defined waist, a nod to the silhouette produced by an apron. 

Imperfection and rawness is celebrated and refined throughout – across menswear the use of contrasting materials and shapes is a defining theme. A lightly padded thermoreactive jacket in titanium grey epitomises the use of innovative fabrics, whilst a layered composition featuring elongated sleeveless knitwear paired with a textured shirt and wide leg jersey trousers, typifies the bold and unexpected use of form in the collection. The garments are complemented by a range of hybrid accessories; a heel with a distinctive track sole and a reimagined Wellington boot, both in a high shine leather, for women, and square-toe leather zip boots for men. Key functional pieces include a cube-shaped collapsible leather bag, oversized shopper and felted wool backpack, all in taupe. Jewellery is epitomised by corrugated sterling silver earrings.

 

 

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Gary Chew presents the Fashion Dogs of S+S 2018 collections.


Gary Chew presents the Fashion Dogs of S+S 2018 collections.


 

 

DOG GEAR
*spring + summer 018*


april 018

written MICHELLE HEATH


Each year catwalks all over Europe are flooded with models as people from all over the globe watch attentively taking in the upcoming season’s trends.  

 
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 Fashion experts including Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar have listed trends for spring and summer 2018 to include sheer, pastel colours, plastic and fringe. But as Harper’s Bazaar points out, the over-riding trend amongst designer heavyweights is to stick to what you know, further exemplified by the return of Burberry’s iconic plaid in this year’s runway shows. 

This dedication to the tried and true does not imply a sense of playing it safe or dullness but a means of providing timelessness to design. With the impact of Fashion Revolution Week consumers are demanding better quality for their money and one aspect of that is timeless designs that won’t go out of style. 

While catwalks and wardrobes will continue to be an array of exploration into the world of colour, form and texture designers will continue to design work that encompasses and expresses their philosophies. Each new piece being above all, a true representation of each designer’s fashion identity.


credits_
Drawing GARY CHEW

 

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DANSE LENTE Spring Summer 2018


DANSE LENTE Spring Summer 2018


 

 

DANSE LENTE
S+S 018 


april 018

Danse Lente, the London-based women's accessories label. Specialising in handbags and leather goods, each piece is designed with a purpose in mind, to cater to the rigors of life without sacrificing style.

 
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Danse Lente - derived from the French for 'slow dance' - has adopted a playful, curious slant to cater to a large contingent of women, drawing inspiration from contemporary aesthetics and modern architecture.
 
For SS18, the brand has focused upon striking silhouettes and sculptural design to reshape modern expectations of a daily accessory. Think gymnastics - clean lines of vaults, rings and pommel horses that place natural curves against a backdrop of strong edges and robust hardware. 
What's more, the line references the bodily lines of an actual gymnast to add a further sense of fluidity to the collection.

 

 

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Wan Hung Autumn and Winter 018-019


Wan Hung Autumn and Winter 018-019


 

 

WAN HUNG
Autumn/Winter 018


april 2018
 

Delving deeper into the sensually of gym culture, Wan Hung debuts his Autumn Winter 2018/19 collection during Shanghai Fashion Week. Taking “Mister Hung”, the office worker meets gym-enthusiast and elevating this to the next chapter. Using intricate performance fabric and smart pattern cutting to create a full range wardrobe that can fit many occasions for a businessman’s lifestyle. Referencing the cult classic film, “The Perks of Being a Wallflower’ Wan captures each stage of growing up, with a developed and progressive product range for the journey of man. With this is mind, Greek philosopher, Epicurus divulges the ‘happiness checklist’ which resonates with Wan Hung during the design process. This includes a mindful simplicity of survival elements from friends, freedom, thought, food, shelter and clothing.

 
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Taking this inspiration, a stage further, Wan Hung adds sports to his own personal happiness checklist, with the overwhelming importance this factor have in a culture-less modern day society. A dreamless life is a dull one, unable to strive towards anything greater or looking towards the future in a positive perspective. With playful designs, Wan Hung allows the wearer to escape the sometimes challenging reality. Wan Hung has partnered Mr. Company for this season, on formal leatherwear to elevate the sophistication of the collection. Unicare have also collaborated with Wan Hung this season, adding a pop of colour seen in the leisurewear footwear range on the runway, both helping bring the complex lifestyle vision together.

Wan Hung was founded in 2014 following designer Wan Hung Cheung’s graduation from Central St Martins, won the prize of Hand & Lock Award (embroidery fashion competition), and experience working with brands including Tom Ford, John Rocha, Simone Rocha and Bernhard Willhelm. Clean-cut tailoring and classic silhouettes, reinvented through textile and print innovation and contemporary flourishes and detailing are at the heart of the Wan Hung brand, speaking to a sophisticated modern urban customer. Wan Hung Cheung, born and raise in Hainan – often described as the Hawaii of China for its year-round holiday weather, coconut palms, gold-sand beaches and inland rainforests. The juxtaposition of Hainan’s natural beauty with the present day urban experience underlies the Wan Hung brand, bringing a piece a paradise into the luxury menswear wardrobe of today.

CREDITS_
starring ROLIEN ZONNEVELD
seen by LONNEKE VAN DER PALEN
styling + art direction SCHUELLER DE WAAL
Footwear MARKO BAKOVIC
 

www.wanhung.com

 

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Be inspired by the current A+W 018 Collection by Roberta Einer.


Be inspired by the current A+W 018 Collection by Roberta Einer.


 

 

ROBERTA EINER
A+W018 


written Jessica Bumpus

MARCH 018

The Eighties via old-school films Blade Runner and Tron; computer games and arcades, the buzz of pinball machines, their primary-bright graphics; the allure of the power suit, the even greater allure of its neon-bold colours; and that perfect kind of awkward style: in a collection that is nostalgic to the era, Roberta Einer rekindles the best bits of the Eighties to create her own updated take, one that comes imbued with a renewed glamour for autumn+winter 018.

 
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The maximalist luxury ready-to-wear designer finds her inspiration in the life of the woman she saw as coming through at the time, stepping into her life for 24 hours and traversing her wardrobe: from from a puffer jacket to go and grab the milk in, to bright shiny Swarovski crystals and sequins – always a Roberta Einer favourite - to easy pyjama styles, pinstripes, power dressing and party dresses. Chunky knits of thick yarn make for mum-and-dad sweaters with a naïve charm; while hoodies, T-shirts and bombers feature retro graphics taken from her own family photo album of the time: Einer’s mother and father posing in holiday snaps make for sweet motifs which, personal to the designer, also possess a relatable memory-lane quality. There also come her recurring signatures, the bomber jacket – now boasting computer-graphic ornamentation for patchwork detail – and sequins. Here rendered in flashy flourishes for floral clusters on pinstripe dresses that make for a throwback to the office-wear trope of the time.

Three standout silhouettes underpin the season: Roberta Einer takes on the power suit with shapely skirts and new ostentation; draped party dresses bunch and gather at the hip and come in sassy-shimmery shades; and there are asymmetric flared and textured dresses, their cable knit running out across the body at different directions in a flattering contour. Colours throughout are high-shine, bold and bright, Eighties-centric with Bridget Riley monochrome to be found too.

This is the third season that Einer has collaborated with Swarovski to show off her textile ingenuity in 3D floral cutout pieces and the iridescent sew-on crystals used in dégradé fashion on oversized blazers. Her team up with Vans shoes, too, continues for cool and collectible sneakers; while autumn/winter 2018 also marks the launch of a brand-new collaboration with jewellery brand URIBE. A mix of pretty-but-awkward ear cuffs, earrings and chokers that can be stacked up the way you want with different floral charm and Swarovski crystal combinations.

Luxury Womenswear designer Roberta Einer moved from her hometown of Tallinn, Estonia to London to study on the prestigious fashion courses at Central Saint Martins and the University of Westminster. During her studies she completed internships with Mary Katrantzou and Alexander McQueen, before moving to Paris upon graduation to assist at Balmain for a year where she continued to develop her craft.

Establishing her label upon her return to London, the Roberta Einer brand is now in its sixth season creating experimental, luxury womenswear which focuses on textiles and working with traditional couture techniques. Playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decorate specially sourced fabrics to create her daring more-is-more, feminine aesthetic.

Named as One to Watch by NEWGEN in December 2015, in April 2016 Roberta Einer was selected as a winner of Saks’ inaugural Emerging Designer Showcase competition. Her innovative designs have been featured in the likes of American Vogue, Teen Vogue, Dazed & Confused, HUNGER and i-D Magazine.

 

 

credits_
photograph Juliette Cassidy
styling Tati Cotliar
casting Chloe Rosolek
set design Bryony Edwards
production The Bridge Co.

www.robertaeiner.com

 

Be inspired by the new collection RITUALS of APHID Fall Winter 2018.


Be inspired by the new collection RITUALS of APHID Fall Winter 2018.


 

 

APHID
*Rituals 018*



MARCH 018

A musing on the concept of ritual, the Aphid A+W018-019 collection explores the notion of formal dressing and dressing for ceremony, the traditions for men & women, nostalgia and the definition of "dressing up" in a contemporary setting. Having researched the ceremonial dress codes of Asian cultures, especially the hakama trousers of traditional Japanese cultural events, the concept of layering became a key focus for the new collection. On-going Aphid signatures, meshed with the composition and deconstruction of the classic suit, inform a shifting silhouette of pieces that can be worn together or styled independent of the whole.

 
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A collage of print and surface texture born of the intertwining and hybrid fusion of the common pinstripe and the ritually raked ridges of a zen garden. Integrated a duality into the collection: embracing both the somber reflectiveness of a monochrome palette with the vivid and energising shades associated with celebratory festivals and festive dress. Infusions of saturated and duo-chromatic brights - refreshing, invigorating and bringing a new perspective to the signature Aphid canvas of darkened tones.

Aphid is a British designer brand helmed by Bernadette Bull and Carl Starling, launching in 2016. Aphid is rooted in the natural world - named after strictly female insect colonies, who reproduce perfect replicas of themselves without the need for males, Aphid create clothes that represent strength, power and confidence via beautifully sculpted, strong silhouettes. Using unexpected fabrics and the use of specially developed techniques. With this in mind and as a starting point for the brand, they wanted to create clothes that embody this persona, to be worn with confidence yet versatile enough to be worn anywhere. Aphid is founded on the premise of exploring form and framing the contrast between an intriguing penchant for darkness and a person's individual light.

 

 

The New Originals present their spring summer 018 collection titled DEVOON.


The New Originals present their spring summer 018 collection titled DEVOON.


 

 

THE NEW ORIGINALS
DEVOON seen by Alassan Diawara 


march 2018
 

The New Originals makes performance clothing for creatives. Striving for enduring and vigor clothing, that contributes to an individual. The brand believes that everyone is able to maximize their creativity regardless of their background, by thinking out of the box. Thinking out of the box means to The New Originals thinking divergent and free of boundaries.

 
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Their s+s018 collection Devoon reffers to the era of new fertile ground after repetitive processes of achieving a steady base of recognizable The New Originals styles. The brand is showing an extended version of their house styles earth-tones and edgy colors lay the base, and illustrations with their collections The New Originals interject classical styles, e-worked sport- and leisure styles from the 70’s era and reinterpreted them in a the new originals aesthetic. 

In their latest campaign, the brand worked together with Belgian fashion photographer Alassan Diawara.

 

New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 presents *China Day*.


New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 presents *China Day*.


 

 

NYFW CHINA DAY
*TMALL hits major collaboration with CFDA NYFW China Day* 


written Jessah Amarante

march 018

As a 5 year joint partnership among Alibaba's Tmall, a luxury e-commerce company, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Suntchi, China's leading fashion company, China Day aimed to boost worldwide recognition of Chinese design, and ultimately, promote global opportunities for the brands debuting this season. NYFW: Men’s China Day was officially part of the menswear schedule this season, next season it will switch to women’s as they take center stage.

 
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 Li Ning, Peacebird, Chen Peng and CLOT by Edison Chen & Kevin Poon were the designers amongst this season debuting at the Skylight Modern. Following the shows, the collections are available to shop on Alibaba’s millions active users on a see-now-buy-now basis by Tmall, and the organizers expect that the glamorizing of NYFW will further interest the brand's reputations not only back in China but globally. 

Li-Ning an already established label that launched in 1989, his legacy started as an Olympic gymnast. His sportswear brand that featured track pants, dad sneakers, and hoodies emblazoned with Chinese characters and throwback images of its eponymous founder in his days as an Olympic gymnast. His runway theme was “past, future, man, and nature.” The brand had some similarities upon other designers in the market, in the footwear area as Li-Ning is known for, the sock shoe as seen in Balenciaga Triple S as well the chunky dad shoe as seen in Yeezy wave runners. The sporty ensemble included blocked colors in some of the designs, especially a bright red that really popped.

Peacebird a super young and fresh designer just 20 years old with thousands of stores across the country and billions in annual revenue, however, he is unknown to abroad shoppers. On the runway was presented an homage to the 80's-90's pop culture and bringing the Coca-Cola logos into the designs. To simplify the Chinese student attire, school uniforms, tracksuits, dungarees and ultra-boxy tailored clothing and the mom jeans that we are seeing day to day.

Chen Peng has already won the hearts of Rihanna and Lady Gaga with his one size fits all puffer jackets and mini bulldog purses. Launching his career in 2015 with his intensive beauty and fashion background from London and working at Christian Dior. Chen’s visionary designs challenge conventional beauty ideals and explore size, gender, and personality. His fascination with individuality paired with a sharp talent in pattern making sets the foundation for Chen’s signature “one-sized” designs: a diverse line of garments that can be adjusted to fit bodies of any size. Most what was on the runway had a vinyl shiny finish material with a very futuristic feeling, playful accents, and bold colors. Chen's was the only brand on the schedule with existing US stockists like Opening Ceremony, Dover Street Market, and Farfetch.

Brand CLOT was established in 2003 by founders Edison Chen and Kevin Poon. Their runway philosophy on "East Meets West" had much American inspiration from hoodies, Chicago Bull Jerseys to pajama pants and skater-hip hop vibes. CLOT is proud to share a common vision with the partners of the event as Paul Fang, CEO of Suntchi states, “We also carry a mission to bridge the Chinese designers and brands to the American fashion community.”

 

New York Fashion Week Fall Winter 018


New York Fashion Week Fall Winter 018


 

 

NYFW *Selects
Ready-to-Wear 018


march 018

 

Artist Łukasz Horbów presents illustrations of the best runway looks from New York Fashion Week A+W 018, including Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. 

 
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“Take it to the runway,” Marc Jacobs pronounced during a preview of his new Ready-to-Wear collection during NYFW 018 back in february. And during Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs did just that, with a fearless endorsement of the kind of fashion about which he is truely passionate, audacious, and demonstrative.

Alexander Wang show is his strongest in a while, with strong symbols of what made the late 20th-cen. corporate life sweet. Since Condé Nast has moved to Wall Street, now most of the offices at Ivory Tower are empty. Therefore, Wang used the iconic tower at Times Square in Manhattan for his runway show. He created a centrally located venue in the office and realized another lifetime.  

By filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo´s worth of popcorn, Belgian-born designer Raf Simons has marked his first year at Calvin Klein. The silo´s were not ment to eat but to sit in. Each and every time Simons includes America and it´s culture and politics and draws inspiration for his collections and shows.  Just to remind, his previous s+s 018 show was inspired by an American nightmare. Simons manages (very self-conscious) that his messages quite often overwhelm the actual collections.

 

Part Two of Juergen Teller x Adwoa for Burberry in New York City.


Part Two of Juergen Teller x Adwoa for Burberry in New York City.


 

 

Juergen Teller x Adwoa
Part II: New York City


march 2018
 

Revealing the latest portfolio of images from a series photographed by Juergen Teller in collaboration with British model and artistic director Adwoa Aboah. Shot in New York, the images feature candid moments between Adwoa and her close friends and family.

 
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The cast includes Jean Campbell, Oli Green, Adwoa's sister and artist Kesewa Aboah, photographer, filmmaker and writer Jonah Freud, and Riccardo Ambrosio, all captured in Manhattan's Bowery neighbourhood. The content coincides with the launch of the Burberry summer collection, which features classic pieces disrupted with defaced checks on trench and car coats, dresses and shirts. British landmarks and postcard prints decorate jackets, shirts and sweaters while tulle and lace are layered with mohair and jersey in new, playful proportions.
The first portfolio of images captured by Juergen along Regent's Canal in London was released in December 2017, featuring Adwoa together with her cousins Alfie Husband, George Husband, Richard Theodore-Aboah and Kwame N'Dow, as well as friends Montell Martin and Mae Muller.
The third and final portfolio will be unveiled in May 2018.

 

CREDITS
© Courtesy of Burberry/Juergen Teller

www.burberry.com

 

See the new SCHUELLER DE WAAL A+W 018-019 collection titled SUMMER = WINTER.


See the new SCHUELLER DE WAAL A+W 018-019 collection titled SUMMER = WINTER.


 

 

SCHUELLER DE WAAL
Summer = Winter


march 2018
 

For A+W 018-019 Schueller de Waal revisit their S+S 018 collection, starting from the title ‘SUMMER=WINTER’. Questioning fashions seasonal rules, the designers approached their new collection by re-offering S+S 018 and completing the exact same looks with an extra layer. By adding one freshly designed winter(ish) garment to every look, SDW turn their summer into winter in a blunt but effective manner.

 
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The result is a compact focus on SCHUELLER DE WAAL’ s expertise: shirts, coats and jackets as ideal layering pieces. New sleeve constructions explosive in shape, heavier fabrications and surprising detailing refresh the SDW design classics.

Conceptually SDW express their ideas on the new season in a symbiosis of campaign and lookbook imagery. The lookbook portrays a model simply wearing the new garments of the collection, the winter layer so to say. For their campaign images the designers projected the past seasons lookbook images over their new designs: visually blurring layers colours and textures of various seasons. It expresses the label's desire for a more season-less approach and multi-disciplinary future.

CREDITS_
starring ROLIEN ZONNEVELD
seen by LONNEKE VAN DER PALEN
styling + art direction SCHUELLER DE WAAL
Footwear MARKO BAKOVIC
 

www.schuellerdewaal.com

 

Be inspired by the current A+W 018 Collection by Xiao Li.


Be inspired by the current A+W 018 Collection by Xiao Li.


 

 

XIAO LI
A+W018 


february 018

Key inspiration derives from the skate culture of the 70s; taking a keen look at photographer Hugh Holland’s saturated, hazy colours and the unapologetic attitude of the skaters, Xiao Li looks to the way he has an art of capture the essence of the moment. Using this strong visual reference as a catalyst for the mood seen throughout this collection, Hugh Holland inspired Xiao Li to incorporate a tough femininity with sportswear elements, seen specifically in her aim to continuously push the boundaries of knitwear.

 
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Pairing the candid spirit of teenage skaters with the flamboyant aesthetic of retro Americana, Xiao Li pays close attention to the vibrancy of Los Angeles, coming together to create something of unique design quality. Beautiful show stopping architectural pieces are clad in a luxury bespoke print, splashed with badge prints from car wash signs to skater figures resulting in a kitsch and nostalgic iconic graphic. These graphics play a key part in this collection, expressing a playful fun-loving element and are complete with wavy silicone pop colour accessories.

Adding a hint of irony, clashing symbolic class with the dream-like aura of the glowing LA road signs are paired with graphic slogans of the ‘low daily rate’ seen next to a tongue-in-cheek silicone diamonds. Confidence carries the wearer through this collection and the ability to pair the sharp suiting and puffer pieces together and a sense of cultural awareness engages the meaning behind the motifs. Cosy duvet dresses and coats are snuggled up against silk pyjama-style printed pastel pieces, referencing the manic pace of American culture.

Silicone is cleverly printed onto statement pastel faux fur outwear pieces; these exaggerated and dramatically feminine silhouettes are bold in structure yet soft a consistently playful colour palette, transcending from the Xiao Li brand since the debut collection. The intricate art of hand embroidering silicone crystals embellished in chunky pop colour blocks, subverting traditional luxury adornment into something novel and brash.

The way of life and attitude of Los Angeles is really inspirational in the way that there’s a place for everyone, and it is a place everyone can be accepted for who they are. It is a city full of hopes and dreams where everything seems possible.” – Xiao Li

 

 

credits_
photograph Helle Moos

www.xiaoli.co.uk

 

See the new pre-fall 018 collection of Yuul Yie seen by David Gomez-Maestre.


See the new pre-fall 018 collection of Yuul Yie seen by David Gomez-Maestre.


 

 

YUUL YIE
New Collection *Glamour* shot by David Gomez-Maestre


february 2018
 

Korean designer Sunyuul Yie is know for her statement pearl-embelished velvet footwear. ‘Glamour’ is a word often co-opted, and often overused. For pre-fall 018 however, designer Sunyuul Yie has returned the term to its classic meaning, embedding a series of shapes, colors and patterns with old school sentimentality. 

 
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Founded in 2013 by Korean designer Sunyuul Yie, Yuul Yie represents a new wave of cult luxury leather goods. Specialising in footwear, the brand's collection is made with leather sourced from Italy’s finest tanneries. From reimagined Mary Jane loafers to colour block mules, everyday shoes are punctuated with statement design, trapezoidal shapes and a focus on comfortable wearability.

 That’s not to say YUUL YIE’s modern signature has been ignored, though. The designer’s architectural stamp is ever present with silver balls installed within trapezoidal pieces, giving a clear nod to traditional pilgrim shoes with oval-shaped decorations and a water-waved zip.

See, glamour needn’t read excessive. To the contrary, YUUL YIE has returned its word to its quieter origins, letting subtlety speak far louder than statement with a sharp blend of old and new.

 

How Can You Draw Inspiration from the Fusion of Identity in Fashion?


How Can You Draw Inspiration from the Fusion of Identity in Fashion?


 

 

Identity in Fashion
*How Can You Draw Inspiration from the Fusion of Identity in Fashion?*


written Rachel Stinson


february 018

If there is one thing that fashion is about, it is definitely expression; the expression of who you are is something that you should be able to do through your fashion but a lot of people tend to find difficulties in fusing their personas with their fashion. 

 
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*Find Yourself*

The first way for you to find any form of inspiration is to find yourself. Most often, we tend to lose track of things that are peculiar to us just because we take in styles we see from others; whether it be our closest friends, celebrities that we see online and on TV, or other people that we believe are in better style and can pull off certain things. The consequence of this is that this alien identity tends to come in and form who we are and as such, we adopt a persona that really isn’t us. The best way for you to jam out of this funk is to spend some time with yourself and rediscover you. Be kin one with yourself and you’ll begin to see changes in the way you dress.

 

*Discover Your Likes*

This is just a little part of finding yourself, but it is a step that you should in no way ignore: What do you like? What are your hobbies? What gets you all charged up? Providing answers to questions like these will definitely go a long way in helping you to discover your style and though that, you can actually dress to fit you. For example you can simply put on an abaya to look seamlessly stylish and trendy or if you eventually find out that you’re a soccer fan, why not try out a jersey for the New York Red Bulls on pull on a Los Angeles Galaxy jersey? Who knows? You might actually like wearing it.

 

*Trends Could Actually Also Help You*

Yes, fashion should be expressive. However you could also draw inspiration from trends.  Now that you know yourself and the things that you like, being aware of the latest fashion trends could actually help you to channel that persona into your dressing.  Take the soccer fan example for a minute no that you are super into soccer, you could get a jersey of a club you like (or just any jersey that you saw while engaging in an online shopping spree and which peaks your fancy), pair it with a pair of awesome jeans, add sweet sneakers, and put a jacket over everything. 

Stylish, right? It’s that simple!

credits_ 

photography Clem Onojeghuo

 

Bora Aksu’s AW18 collection is inspired by the tale of Margaret Ann Bulkley.


Bora Aksu’s AW18 collection is inspired by the tale of Margaret Ann Bulkley.


 

 

BORA AKSU
A+W018 


february 018

Bora Aksu’s AW018 collection is inspired by the tale of Margaret Ann Bulkley - a young woman who went against the grain of Georgian society to become one of the most respected surgeons of her time. She championed the cause of
proper medical care for the lower classes, and was only able to practice by disguising herself as a man.

 
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And it’s this metamorphosis that’s provided the creative backbone to the designer’s collection, contrasting opulence with simplicity, hard and soft textures, and layered gowns alongside traditional tailoring.

Bulkley’s biological femininity is evident in light pastels of lilas, blues and powder pinks that are enveloped within silk tulles and pleated organzas. This provides a foil to Bulkley’s constructed gender - her male persona - that is largely represented by rich cashmere wools, heavy velvets and flamboyant, boyish looks. The end result is proof that romance can exist within the bold, and the very notion of a romantic garment needn’t be a delicate one. The traditional nuances of each gender is also visible within embroidered, printed dress, and silhouettes are voluminous and rich - another take on Bulkley’s manipulation of her natural form. Factor in the long tailored cocoon coats, and cropped jackets too, and here’s a functional collection that celebrates and experiments with what we perceive be the female body.

 

 

See the new Burberry Fall Winter collection shown during London Fashion Week 2018.


See the new Burberry Fall Winter collection shown during London Fashion Week 2018.


 

 

BURBERRY
reflecting the past, celebrating the present, heralding the future 


february 018

'Our Time', a piece of work on loan from the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Australia, investigates the subjective experience of the passing of time through movement, light and sound, and was reimagined in collaboration with Christopher, to provide the backdrop to the runway collection. The installation's pendulums swung to their own rhythm in time to the show's soundtrack by Jimmy Somerville, The Communards and Bronski Beat.

 
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Models including past and present campaign stars Adwoa Aboah, Jean Campbell, Montell Martin and Edie Campbell - who appeared in her first Burberry campaign in 2006 - revealed the collection, which revisited past icons and house codes, including the trench coat, the aviator, the cape, the poncho and the military coat as well as introduced new designs.

The Rainbow check, the latest iteration of Burberry's most iconic symbol and designed as part of Christopher's dedication of his last collection to LGBTQ+ communities, featured throughout the show. A capsule of reissued archive pieces from the 1980s and 1990s rereleased as part of this collection is now available for immediate purchase.

Cara Delevingne, discovered by Christopher and Burberry over seven years ago, closed the show and led the finale as models walked under a spectrum of rainbow laser lights. Over 1300 guests attended to watch the show including close Burberry friends and family including Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Keira Knightley, Zendaya Coleman, Naomi Watts, Michelle Dockery, Naomie Harris, Iris Law, Lily James, Matt Smith, Jourdan Dunn, Kate Mara, Idris Elba, Domhnall Gleeson, Tom Holland, Paris Jackson, James Righton, Zhou Dongyu,  and Angela Ahrendts.



'My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to - and in support of - some of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.'

Christopher Bailey, Burberry President and Chief Creative Officer

 

 

credits_
United Visual Artists, Our Time, 2016, Collection Museum of Old and New Art (Mona), Hobart, Australia

www.burberry.com

 

Pablo Erroz Goals Fall-Winter 2018


Pablo Erroz Goals Fall-Winter 2018


 

 

PABLO ERROZ
*Goals* A+W018 


february 018

Pablo Erroz produces ready-to-wear fashion for men + women. The brand is characterized by its attention to detail and refined taste, combining classical and modern concepts and made, from start to finish, in Spain. 

 
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The new fall+winter 018 collection named GOALS completes the trilogy after its predecessors PANORAMA (A+W 017) + LEAVE TO LIVE (S+S 018). With this collection Erroz attempts to identify  with small niches, individual creatures. Seeking uniqueness, admiration, desire; reflecting the anxiety of an uncertain future. The collection is made for those who grew up in the 90s, in an era of minimalism and disco; the simple and the complex.  Photographer David Hauser has captured the latest show of Pable Erroz A+W 018 during 080 Barcelona Fashion Week.

 

 

credits_
photographer DAVID HAUSER

www.pabloerroz.com

 

DROMe Fall Winter 2018 Collection Lookbook


DROMe Fall Winter 2018 Collection Lookbook


 

 

DROMe
Pre*fall 018

february 018
 

DROMe´s Creative Director Marianna Rosati focuses in her pre-fall 018 collection on the expansion of fabrics like silk + plaid knits to balance her leather staples.

 
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DROMe is an Italian brand and first stood as a project uniquely based on leather, rendered as a lively and natural material, yielding to shapes and themes inspired both by biker and sport worlds and by a new concept of this textile, renovating the classic notion of a "leather jacket". The DROMe atmosphere is subtle. DROMe is not a mere product but the research of an individual and recognizable style, emerging from a poetic and passionate vision of the leather. Now, in the pre-fall collection Rosati envolves the main tenets of her spring lineup, more focusing on the expansion of non-leather fabrics such as silk or plaid knits to support her leather pieces. The reason for taking this major step was the positive response to the non-leather pieces. 

DROMe, again presents a product that is powerful, urban and rule breaking, but at the same time niche, sophisticated, cool, and modern.