Henrik Vibskov
*is Gone With the Wind

june 018

written MALCOLM THOMAS

Three women, performers, dubbed the “VIBS Air Repair Service” remove cloths from wind turbines made of recycled sheets. In their tea-colored muslin uniforms they control the wind, and therefore, the show. Medieval bonnets, linen khaki suits, and chunky roped sandals make my acquaintance. A scalloped seersucker dress blows by; a raised polka dot shirt raises my heart rate. 

 “One can’t see the wind, but it shapes and changes things on its way forward,” said the program. Everything but my mind. I’m now convinced Henrik Vibskov’s high concept, slow fashion approach in this day and age, is rather avant garde in it itself. Even more so than the clothes to be worn. And to be honest, to dissect a collection like Vibskov’s is like taking the brush from a painter before their final stroke. 

Vibskov gave new breadth to the phrase, wherever the winds blows. Layering his models in parachute prints, vintage-like “Soap Opera” sweaters, and Madras button-ups. “Due to Sudden Weather Change,” (the name of the collection), was much like the human experience, it was vast, varied and wasn’t always easy to interpret. But like Tina Turner once sang,

“the wheels just keep on turning.”

http://henrikvibskov.com

SANKUANZ Mens Spring 019
*for Protection

june 018

written MALCOLM THOMAS

It was hard and plastic. Cut-outs of crosses, eagles and axes decorated the Sankuanz show invitation. At the time I didn’t know they were Shangguan Zhe’s interpretations on border patrol.  I didn’t know what to expect. Then the lights dimmed. There was no time to settle in.

I was hit hard by chain mail tops, silver jewels that hung from hoods, and pick axes used as accessories. Social uniforms and protection. White Chelsea boots paired with pale violet denim. Made in Japan. A slick PVC raincoat that had me wishing for rain, and a leather cowboy zip-front shirt evocative of the Mariachi costume had me thinking about joining the rodeo.

(I wish I was kidding).

I mean this is the same brand who created a sandal for your sneakers. Just you know, umm… slide and strap em’ in. A collaboration with Puma. This season in a full line of colorways. And since we’re on the subject, whatever your hue, chic is the look. Tonight, I encourage you to wear your armor.

Sankuanz for protection. 

http://web.sankuanz.com

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
*Seducing the Eye at Maison Mihara Yasuhiro

june 018

written MALCOLM THOMAS

Mihara Yasuhiro began as a shoe designer. An ambitious design student with big ideas. Twenty years later, in a cobblestone garage at 22 rue de Lübeck in Paris he’s still thinking big. Celebrating two decades of cerebral foreplay, the designer curled some pages from his own book. “Proto-Type II” it was dubbed, is a re-constructing of an inquisitive spirit, the program stated. A spirit which has undoubtedly earned him veteran status in an industry of high turnover.

How can you turn an otherwise everyday cardigan into a fashion statement? Design it backwards. Sweats not acceptable? Attach an additional pant to it. Want to conquer the denim on denim look? Wear as much denim as you can possibly strap to your back. For the laymen, these concepts can be quite provocative. Why worry about thinking outside the box, when you can re-design it, Yasuhiro says. 

While many of the pieces are not what most would deem “wearable” the very notion of transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary is enough to satisfy my palette. The “is fashion art?” debate has been going on forever. And sure, Mihara Yasuhiro certainly won’t be hanging in the Louvre, but when fashion can make you think, when it can leave you scratching your head in bewilderment at how the fuck a garment can be worn, let alone sewn to seduce the eye of the beholder, the question answers itself. Or more simply put, a model sported a blouson with words on the back, it read

“This is Tomorrow”.           

http://miharayasuhiro.jp

LI-NING
*Takes Paris

june 018

written MALCOLM THOMAS

It was part of China Day when I saw it in New York. A series of collections meant to introduce trendy sportswear brands from the East to the North American market. And considering the influx of Chinese capital particularly in the luxury market it was no wonder even then that the space was packed. So naturally, with the success in New York this season Li-Ning came to Paris.

Unfortunately, due to scheduling conflicts I couldn’t make this show. (Puts foot in mouth). But from the looks of it, the namesake of legendary Chinese Olympic gymnast cast quite the spell on the City of Light. Somewhere between the intersection of future and heritage lay a collection infused with a deep sense of Chinese pride and off-kilter apparel.

Using a color palette of olive, orchid, nuclear green, and national colors, cardinal red and bright yellow, Dolman-sleeved track tops and patchwork-drop shoulder jackets, Li-Ning brought streetwear to modernity.

http://lining.com

Cmmn Swdn vs. Fast Fashion
*s+s019 @Paris Fashion Week

june 018

written MALCOLM THOMAS

“It’s a jumble out there,” read the program. As I stood in front of a literal bail of discarded clothing, a “Cmmn Swdn” placard placed in the center as if to hold it all. If only bold statements in leather, tulle, and mesh could solve the crisis of overproduction. Try to imagine a world sans resort, pre-fall and fast fashion. In a word, “impossible”. While the Scandinavian house by way of London, is surely not in the business of environmental activism, their take on the subject matter was impressive, if not coolly creative. 

There were sheer tops fused with unlikely textures like wool and denim, deconstructed shoes recycled from their AW18 collection in collaboration with shoe artisan, Helen Kirkum, a few practical pieces too, like plaid leather mac coats, and pinstripe suiting, worn with the ever-popular dad sneaker. A personal favorite was the button-ups with sleeves used practically as decoration. A clever take on art vs. commerce. I mean some men, doactually still do that 9 to 5 thing. Emphasis on some.

Not to fret, if you like lounging round' the streets of trendy nightclubs your parents never knew they wanted to get into, there are pieces for you, if you’re a slave to the office but have the freedom to spice up that work wardrobe, there are many pieces for you, and if you’re just a ridiculously good-looking model type, there’s are (many) pieces for you.

Young. Political. Cohesive. Cool. It’s all for you.

https://cmmn-swdn.com

CHALAYAN
*pendulum

june 018

Looking at what happiness means in different regions of the world, the Chalayan Women’s Collection evolves in a spirit of re-enacting and abstractly depicting various historical world events. Cultural tendencies are applied as certain actions inspired by these events and placed onto ordinary clothes.

According to this process, fabrics and prints are developed to portray pivotal events and differences in attitude on the respective continents. 

In the Centre of the World, expansionism in the Roman era is represented by The Abduction of Sabine Women, dating to around 752 BC in Roman Italy. In this light, jackets as seen in a modern wardrobe are displaced on the body to simulate an attempted abduction. 

Not so different from current world events, this Roman disaster is further represented by the volumes, which are picked up in the garments themselves. In another instance, built-in straps prevent garments from being pulled away any farther. These details then evolve into bag-like pockets integrated into the garment to empower the wearer, and to emphasize the ‘irremovability’ of what is worn. 

The East is represented by a propensity for preservation and protection, with pieces wrapped and guarded by tulle and cotton silk. The South is symbolized by hedonism and chaos. The North is shown as a grid system in conjunction with nature. The West is represented by the power of individuality, upon which the whole collection is stylistically built. 

Textiles include lightweight tailoring fabrics, printed textures, jacquard with transparent windows, lightweight papery outerwear materials, wool cotton mix tailoring fabrics, white and black denim and lightweight Japanese Jerseys. 

Colours are classic neutrals with bright pop colours mixed in. 

www.store.chalayan.com

JOSHUA MILLARD
A+W 018 

june 018

With his latest autumn+winter 018 collection, Joshua Millard offers a fresh perspective to his signature tribute to rural workwear. 

Now in his fifth season, the luxury, ready-to-wear designer continues to draw inspiration from his childhood memories of farming in Dorset and specifically, the rolling chalk hills of Southern England known as the Downlands.

Agricultural references seep into this texture-rich collection and manifest as English heritage reimagined and made relevant for today’s luxury market. Patchwork farming shirts, tailored tweed suiting and shearling outerwear add to the nostalgic theme of the collection while sheepskin and tweed girth belts and field hats, which were once worn low at the back to protect from the sun, provide traditional references. A tonal palate with accents of Cyan blue, Iris purple and Ivy greens compliment the collection. Dramatically oversized Alpaca knitted scarfs contrast with the minimal clean finishings of covered buttons, eyelets and raw edged fringing.

The contrast fit of tailored and relaxed cuts highlight Millard’s craftsmanship and amplifies his attention to outerwear, suiting and shirting. 

www.joshua-millard.com

VENCZEL
Collection 02  

june 2018
 

Collection 02 affixes acute lines to sensual forms; blurring the distinction between form and function through discriminating workmanship and attention to detail. By eschewing the trends of an ever-accelerating culture, the label achieves a sublime luxuriousness in its calculated simplictiy.

Every articulation of the label relays this to the wearer; from the techniques behind the Saddlery, to the humanity of the pieces when worn. The feel of the handbags and weight of the jewelry immediately convey that the pieces chase the particular distinction of becoming a future generation’s heirloom.

After presenting the first collection in Paris in September 017 Venczel now coutns some of the world’s most influential stores as stockists; including Totokaelo, lncc and Rare market. Collection 02 features handbags and accessories in vegetable tanned, full grain bovine leather. Designed in Denmark and made in Italy, the collection will be available in selected stores next month.

www.vnczl.com

THE NEW ORIGINALS
Think Outside The Box  

june 2018
 

The New Originals presents ‘Think Outside The Box’, a one-minute manifest film about creativity and diversity, directed by Rutger van Leeuwen . The 60-second movie is produced by production company Bruut Amsterdam. 

Amsterdam is renowned for being one of the creative capitals where boundaries blur and diversity is celebrated. This is the city where The New Originals was born, a brand initiated for creatives with similar mindsets.

The New Originals creates performance clothing for creatives. The nine dots in The New Originals logo symbolize ‘The Box’, and refer to a puzzle where the is solution is outside the box. Think Outside The Box aims to inspire (young) creatives to think greater. 

Through visual storytelling, young and upcoming director Rutger van Leeuwen portrays his take on the subject. Within 60 seconds, Rutger takes you on a visual exciting journey that presents think outside the box and the consequences once the daily routine and ordinary thought processes are broken.

The clip contains three essential parts, starting with a black box drifting through the air. As Rutger explains: “The box is a metaphor for our common thinking. It shows our standard thoughts, which are often afraid to go beyond the ordinary.” The video, shot on all different kind of video formats, quickly builds up to the climax, emphasizing the positive effects of deviant thinking. “The personages reach euphoric moments once they think outside the box. It is all about the sense of joy and happiness, which is released once you break through standard routines,” says Rutger. 

Bruut Amsterdam is a full-service production agency focused on engaging online video and film. Bruut Amsterdam’s clients are brands targeting a connected audience: millennials who don’t watch traditional television and who don’t like old school ads. 

credits_
director_ Rutger van Leeuwen
executive producer_ Merel Blom, Deniz Alkac
DOP._ Woutair Koomen
VHS, video8, fotografie_ Sophie Hemels
VHS, video8, fotografie producer_ Stijn Meijer
1st AC_ Jurrien Kemp
2nd AC_ Rohwel de Rot
gaffer_ Leon Valero
art director_ Jesse van der Kolk
production design_ Ciro Duclos
styling_ Suze Kuit
PA_ Kogob Selase
editor_ Rutger van Leeuwen
animatie_ Rick Kcir
composer_ Vincent Paolo Corputty
sound design_ Danny van der Lugt
mixer_ Nicky Gallardo
grading_ Erik van den Heuvel @ De Grot
concept_Rutger van Leeuwen
production company_ Bruut Amsterdam
produced by Merel Blom
cast_ Sonny Kuit, Hans Badu, Jacquill Basdew, Kiara Velthuis,
Gilles Wijntuin, Bodil Ouedraogo, Stijn Meijer, Tommie Jansen, Hanna van den Berg,
Siep Meijer, Tirino Yspol, Shahine El-Humus, Calis Nyarko, Sammie Straub

special thanks_ Max Maloney, Westerpark Studios, de Grot, Itai Verhoeckx

www.theneworiginals.eu

Freya Dalsjø x Lindsey Wixson
resort 018 

may 2018
 

Freya Dalsjø has been working with aspects of sustainability throughout all seasons. With focus on local production, durable design and respect for resources, she has naturally incorporated sustainability.

Freya and Lindsey are inspired of each other and have previously worked together for several seasons when Lindsey worked as a model. Lindsey kept returning to the small Danish avantgarde brand, partly because of the design, partly due to the special culture and spirit that characterizes the team behind Freya Dalsjø. When Lindsey decided to quit modelling to focus on making sustainable products it felt natural for them to work on a project together.

The materials for the collection are pure natural materials, silk and cotton. The newly purchased materials are GOTS certified. In addition, cotton and silk materials from previous collections are included. Colors and cuts are classic given that the clothes should not only last one season.

The limited-edition resort 2018 collection is produced in Denmark.

www.freyadalsjo.com/

THE NEW ORIGINALS
s+s 018 

may 2018
 

The New Originals makes performance clothing for creatives. Striving for enduring and vigor clothing, that contributes to an individual. The brand believes that everyone is able to maximize their creativity regardless of their background, by thinking out of the box. Thinking out of the box means to The New Originals thinking divergent and free of boundaries.

Their s+s018 collection Devoon reffers to the era of new fertile ground after repetitive processes of achieving a steady base of recognizable The New Originals styles. The brand is showing an extended version of their house styles earth-tones and edgy colors lay the base, and illustrations with their collections The New Originals interject classical styles, e-worked sport- and leisure styles from the 70’s era and reinterpreted them in a the new originals aesthetic. 

www.theneworiginals.eu