FENDI
*Silvia Venturini´s Menswear Spring Summer 2024

written Chidozie Obasi

 

Authenticity is an intensely desirable weapon in fashion. Its power to persuade can’t be denied.

 

The role of real artisanship in an industry that thrives on fads, on the other hand, is inevitably hazy, which is why Silvia Venturini Fendi’s latest offerings set unabashed standards of elegance and practicality.

 
 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine leather
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine coat
 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine long shirtFendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine long shirt
 
 
 

Unsurprisingly, there was a sort of nomadic adventurer vibe, with some details borrowed from utilitarian elegance, an archetype of the corporate artisan celebrated in sophisticated expressions of the house’s codes. Here, references to artisanal know-how came through the light-filled atrium of the FENDI Factory: the collection and the show itself are a reflection on process, where the link between man and machine acquires tangible symbolism between past and future. What’s more, exploring the liminal space that divides nature and innovation, the industrial and the handmade are entwined in a soaring crescendo: tricking the eye, but never the hand. There was an emphasis on new volumes and extreme basics, according to the notes. A sharply-cut cropped jacket paired with ultra-wide cargo pants was a playful take on functional wear; and a slim, knee-length topper with fluid lapels also riffed on the traditional. As always, FENDI showed off their subtle sense of colour, but the cutouts proved to be somewhat tricky, and, while the breezy outerwear was a huge hit throughout the line-up, the take on volumes appeared somewhat redundant.

 
 
 
 
 

This house has always preferred elegance to edge, but this season, the results looked more fuss-free, without the superfluous extras (cue: macro logos!) that have proven a bit too distracting in the past. The setup of the show emphasized the idea that the collection had versatility. The most compelling component about these clothes, though, was that they were both fresh and familiar—the sort of pieces, in fact, you could easily imagine (and want to see) hanging in your closet.

FENDI’s other aim this time around was to create a universal—not controversial—wardrobe to be worn by the modern man, interchangeably. The house presented a newfound affection for silhouettes: the practical pieces intermingled with a chic appeal, while the outerwear felt sublimely in touch with the lush pullovers and trousers.

 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine white look white coat white shorts
 
 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine pants
 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine vest
 
Fendi Spring-Summer 2024 Menswear show report LE MILE Magazine
 
 
 
 

Much of the house’s lineup this season was a pivotal departure from maximalism and a focus on modern workwear, pivoting towards something more sleek-inspired. Perhaps few words and symbols are the testament that freeing a garment from any fuss can go a long way, but it was the house’s response to these windswept times that assured a change of pace—and stylistic practice—that led into cleaner territory. Next season, however, it’d be right to turn slightly inward again and emphasise that the poised spot says so much with a quiet proposal of menswear.

 
 

credits
all images (c) Fendi, 2023